Finland's northernmost town sits on its own lake, where the Santa Claus Express night train ends its run.
The town sits on its own lake, which freezes into an ice-fishing ground within walking distance of the centre. Suomu ski fell is about forty minutes away, husky operators run self-drive safaris rather than passenger rides, and on the Uitonniemi shore Santa's Little Village pairs a small log hotel with Santa visits and aurora outings.
In the light months the sculptures are the reason to slow down: Kemijärvi has hosted an international wood-sculpting week since 1985, and the large wooden works stand around the streets all year. The lake opens for boats and fishing, and the quiet eastern road north makes this a natural first stop rather than a destination to rush through.
Kemijärvi suits rail travellers and anyone who wants Lapland without resort crowds. It works as a calm base for eastern Lapland, with Pyhä and Suomu both within an easy drive. One or two nights is usually enough unless you are using it as a gateway to the quieter eastern route.